A self-drive tour of Sardinia, arranged by Tui, gave us a wonderful insight into this beautiful island — a place of warm welcomes and spectacular views. Our first stop, Hotel Su Litha, set the tone perfectly: strawberry trees and pomegranates in the grounds, crafted home-made pasta, views from the balcony down over Bitti, and a swimming pool fed by a waterfall. Nearby Nuoro and Bene Tutti sat tucked away in the distant mountains, ancient and quietly impressive.
Motorcyclists the world over know Sardinia well. Its mountain roads host every kind of motorbike, from luxury machines to antiques and the very latest models, making journeys up, down, and along the high mountains thrilling but tricky — especially when sharing the road with (surely crazy) cyclists pitting themselves against heat, height, and beautifully built but winding roads. After expending a huge amount of concentration driving from north to south, I needed a long sleep, though the effort was rewarded with countless vistas and wonderful sights along the way. Coffee, pastries, pasta, pizza, and gelato kept the weary traveller going.
In Cagliari, we were drawn first to the old town and enjoyed a memorable lunch on the defensive battlements. The theatre was being refurbished, but the port boasted luxury yachts and a palm-tree ‘strip’ nestled below the hill fort. Surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, Sardinia’s beaches are, unsurprisingly, spectacular. We missed the coves and the salt marshes with their flamingos, but the contrast between coastal Cagliari and ancient Bitti was striking.
That evening, the bar at Hotel T served some of the best cocktails we’ve tasted, gently numbing memories of our mountain drive. The ‘T’ was a modern counterpoint to our rustic first night: luxurious bedrooms, though the restaurant and foyer merged like a classy shopping mall, offering more of a people-watching space than an intimate dining experience.
We recovered with a day of archaeology at a Nuraghic site, transported far back in time with a party of Dutch, Germans, and a mixed bag of other Europeans. Stone-built huts and towers hinted at a civilisation that once gathered here before disappearing behind the curtain of history. Greta, our guide, apologised for her English — though, given how poor our Italian was, it would have been churlish to complain. We were grateful for her insight. A nearby museum offered a wonderful exhibition, including a temporary display on the Terracotta Army. The quality of the photographs was stunning, and the recreated figures were powerful up close.
Our thanks then go to Hotel Tresnuraghes, its unassuming exterior hiding real treasures within, and to nearby Bosa — ancient, filmic, and alive with music and song. A meal of sea bream became a performance, while the local Malvasia perfumed the narrow paved and cobbled streets. Colourful tall houses, beautifully crafted door furniture, and thoughtful street fittings showcased Italian design at every turn, both ancient and modern.
Our final stop took us back north to Hotel Valkaranes, tucked into a hillside overlooking a blue lake. The road revealed teasing glimpses of sparkling water, a dam, and hazy blue hills. Once again, incredible food was served with pride and warmth, accompanied by fresh, fruity Sardinian wines and Ichnusa beer, now owned by Heineken. In the nearby town of Arzachena, art decorated the steps leading to a hilltop temple, creating a colourful visual feast.
From here, we found white sandy beaches where luxury boats drifted past in the distance, and warm waters shimmered with fish, glittering stones, and rocky coves. Our return to Olbia was tinged with sadness, watching jet skis race near the harbour before Pelican Bay. One last glimpse of Sardinia — a large island brimming with culture, warmth, wonderful food, olive groves, basalt mountains, excellent roads, and fascinating geology.
We have barely touched the surface.
We must go back.